Today there was no surf footage, which is a little disappointing. On the other hand I was able to catch a couple of different breaks and met a couple of locals that I'll come back to have a surf with, and it also gave me an opportunity to soak in both the country and what this weekend was all about.
Spending time with friends and family is special, but at 5 am this morning when I had a message through from a mate saying that he had beers with the members of The Cat Empire, the concert that I forgo to come over for this trip, I realised that I wouldn't have wanted to be anywhere else in the world.
I had on 3 pairs of socks, pants, jeans, singlet, thermal long sleeve top, tshirt, zip up jumper, hooded jumper and the sleeping bag, all the while the car was shaking because of the wind and I could here the pitter patter of the rain on the car roof............. and I was loving living every minute of it.
Sometimes you just need to have an incling to want to do something, and you should grab on to that incling and live the shit out of it!!!!
Live it, love it, always remember it.
2 comments:
Hey,
Goog on you for flying over from london to check out the surf. Looks like you had a great weekend of it.
I actually did the same thing as you...well nearly... drove up from dublin on friday night...slept in my car... and just drove around all weekend checking out the surf...I got some real sweet pictures too...
Your prob a bit like myself... in the last few years there''s been something growing in me to chase down huge surf like this... I'm totally addicted!!!
Hey Denis,
Yeah I love it! I've now subscribed to http://www.surfline.com and am looking to get some more footage of the next big swell in Europe.
It's an amazing feeling to just be near surf like this, and to seei people surfing it is just mind blowing! Imagine what it's like to surf it......
Might see you at the next big swell
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